A Covenant Older than Clocks

Mobile is one of the nation’s oldest cities, and its allergy to modern sheen accounts for a lot of its charm. The rich architectural fabric in neighborhoods like Oakleigh and DeTonti Square leaves visitors agape, and the city’s arboreal character — most notably on display in the live oaks that canopy Government Street like great triumphant arches — eclipses even the Garden District of New Orleans.  

But even for such a deeply historical city, much has been lost. The erection of Interstate 10 through downtown Mobile in the early ’70s, and the opening of the George Wallace Tunnel, squashed remnants of the rich Creole culture that took root in the late 1800s in the Down the Bay community, an area that was previously home to Native Americans as far back as 2,000 years. And while Mobile’s Black history is well documented and celebrated at the Africatown Heritage House and Historic Avenue Cultural Center, it is a history that is often sidelined when, in fact, it should be standing front and center.  

This issue’s cover story looks at Baykeeper’s holistic oyster restoration project and our effort to revive the reefs that once flourished in our watershed. This is a story of history as much as ecology. Much of the restoration work is happening in Heron Bay near Dauphin Island, a pristine body of water that was once home to indigenous populations that sustainably harvested oysters for centuries. 

Our ecological history is a living thing. It is not taught in history classes, but its lessons are essential.  

Recent research suggests Native American tribes along the southern coasts had highly complex management practices when it came to oyster harvesting. These tribes harvested oysters at great levels and still the reefs thrived. And yet since 1950, we’ve managed to destroy an estimated eighty-five percent of the reefs in the Mobile Bay watershed — a sad and alarming metric brought on by stressors like predation by drills (small predatory marine snails), unsustainable harvesting practices, shell-dredging for construction materials, and ship-channel dredging.  

The scientific literature indicates Native Americans had hierarchical systems in place about best management practices for oysters, and even pooled resources. Clearly, they worked together for the greater good to protect what was vital, even as there were competing interests — something the modern era has often failed to achieve. 

Baykeeper’s reef restoration is hoping to turn the tide and bring the community together for a common goal. “One of the encouraging aspects of the Oyster Restoration Project is that it is community-driven and led by a variety of stakeholders,” says Baykeeper’s Dr. Kayla Boyd, who heads the initiative. “This project is not only restoring ecosystem functionality, but it also provides support for the commercial oyster fishery.”  

That communal understanding comes with an appreciation of the sacredness of the natural world, and how critical its protection is to our own survival. It’s an unspoken bond that goes back to a time before there were even words for it. 

This issue closes with Susan Rouillier’s poem, “Purple Martins Return to Bahia del Espiritu Santo.” In the poem, she writes, “February twenty-eighth, precise and unannounced/ a covenant older than clocks, truer than our forecasts.” 

These are the covenants we are bound to and have a duty to protect. 

— from Mobile Baykeeper’s CURRENTS, summer 2026

Top of the Class: The Hummingbird Way

What happens when a former Executive Chef for the State of Alabama opens a restaurant in the heart of Mobile’s Oakleigh Garden District? And not just any restaurant, an oyster bar. One that specializes in fresh catch and local produce.

A lot of things happen. A beloved old neighborhood gets a vibrant business, local fishermen and farmers have a market for their catch and produce, and Mobile gets one of the best seafood restaurants in the South. Jobs, culture, and a thousand beautiful nights are created. Everyone wins.

This is what Chef Jim Smith, owner of The Hummingbird Way, has done for the Port City. So it is that I found myself having dinner there back in early November, enjoying a flight of raw oysters and feeling more than a twinge of regional pride for Coastal Alabama’s culinary culture, when the bartender flipped the channel on the TV and … there we were.

“I’m here in Mobile, Alabama, in the Oakleigh Garden District,” chimed Guy Fieri’s familiar voice. A shot of the restaurant and the grand live oaks that line the neighborhood floated across the screen. Fieri is the host of the Food Network’s long-running hit-show “Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives,” whose episodes on the Food Network have struck a chord with a national audience for almost two decades. His trademark spastic energy and no-collar vibe (think Sammy Hagar after the Red Rocker went blonde and you’ve got it) made for an odd mashup with the laconic nature of Mobile’s most historic neighborhood. It is as languorous as Fieri is not, but Fieri knows good food, and so it is no surprise that he has come here in search of America’s great eateries.

Read more from Mobile Baykeeper’s CURRENTS.

Breaking The Habit: Mobile’s Kiss-Off To Single-Use Plastic

Old habits die hard in America. And one habit that has been especially difficult for Americans to kick is our wide-ranging and unrelenting addiction to single-use consumer plastic.

What makes plastic so insidious, and quite frankly so disturbing as a pollutant, is its omnipresence and longevity in our environment. It’s in the land, it’s in the air, it’s in the water, and now, it’s in our bloodstream, in the form of micro-plastics (which are generally considered to be any form of plastic less than five millimeters in length). And it’s not going anywhere anytime soon. (It is said that a plastic grocery bag will remain in the environment for up to 500 years.)

While plastic’s long-term effects on human health are still the subject of inquiry and debate, according to the Plastic Health Coalition, a research and advocacy alliance, we do know that micro-plastics disrupt endocrine function in humans, not unlike PFAs and other toxic chemicals. And it’s not just humans that fall prey to its poison. It’s been forecasted that by midcentury there will be more plastic by weight in our oceans than fish, a fact that augurs grave consequences for our fisheries and marine life. If that’s not enough, recent reports reveal the skies are now raining micro-plastics at a level much greater than previously thought. That fact alone should be enough to make the multitudes weep. Read more.

The Crichton Leprechaun Song

I live in Mobile with the leprechaun
I want the gold from the green jolly mon
I shine my light but I can’t see enough
Some say he’s a crackhead who got the wrong stuff

Gonna take my backhoe gonna root up his tree
Leprechaun make a shadow when the people try to see
People draw the leprechaun make him look like a fool
Leprechaun gonna teach them the golden rule

Everybody see the leprechaun
Everybody see the lеprechaun
Everybody see the lеprechaun

Say yeah
Say yeah

Leprechaun he don’t live anymore around here
City chopped down his tree and the cops took his beer
I miss the leprechaun and it makes me feel cold
Due to the inflation we all need the gold

Everybody miss the leprechaun …..

(Word and music/ Caine O’Rear)