The Bodhisattva of the Bay

The mullet are jumping this summer morning in August. It has not rained in days and the water looks relatively clear, almost green in the early sunlight. I am sitting on a bench under a live oak overlooking Mobile Bay with Jimbo Meador, in front of his house in Point Clear, not far from the hotel. We are drinking coffee and the way these mullet are jumping it’s clear they’ve been drinking it too.

This is the house where Jimbo has lived most of his adult life with his wife, Lynn, and where he raised his two children, Bo and Carolyn. Prior to that it was the house of his wife’s parents. Built in the 1850s, it typifies other coastal cottages of that time period along the Bay with its long galleries and low-form broad roofs which were designed to enhance ventilation in the long, hot summers. It reminds me of another antebellum house along the boardwalk, where I lived one July without air-conditioning at the age of eight, a time punctuated by the sound of a rickety ceiling fan and a black-and-white television tuned constantly to the videos of MTV.

From the bench to the right stands Jimbo’s wharf, where he has cast his fly rod and bait net over the decades and stood sentinel over one of his greatest loves: the Bay. He has seen it change greatly over time. He remembers the days when the water was always clear and seagrass covered its bottoms and gigging flounder with a spear was a daily pastime.

I don’t think there’s anyone who personifies Mobile Bay more than Jimbo. Like those people who seem to blend into the land from which they come and take on its colors and topographical features, Jimbo almost seems to be a natural extension of the water, as much so as a blue heron that melts into the marshes and muddy bottoms of the Delta.

Save for a stint working for Beretta gun company, every job Jimbo’s held has been water-related: shrimping, tug-boat captain, a designer of fishing kayaks, seafood distributor, eco-tour guide in the Delta, the list goes on. 

For some time this certified Master Naturalist has been a sort of spiritual godfather to Mobile Baykeeper, having in recent years developed a keen friendship with our director William Strickland. Jimbo knows the watershed as well as anyone and his memories and knowledge of the Bay and Delta are crucial to draw from as we work to build a better future for our waters.

An icon in the world of fly fishing, Jimbo defies any clichés associated with the “sportsman” or “outdoors-type.” He is a true Southern eccentric: a storyteller and natural-born humorist with a deep interest in Eastern spiritual practices. He has counted among his friends such luminaries as Jimmy Buffett, Guy de la Valdène, Tom McGuane, and Jim Harrison.

Winston Groom dedicated the book Forrest Gump to Jimbo, and it seems Groom’s hero shares more than a few characteristics with our interview subject. Jimbo’s voice was somewhat famously the model for Tom Hanks in the film version of the book. And the fact that we’re sitting here, chatting on a bench under an oak tree hung with Spanish moss is, well, a little uncanny.

As the morning unwinds our talk drifts over a continent of subjects, almost all having to do with the water. What shines through in hearing Jimbo’s tales is his deep sense of spirituality, and the life-affirming quality of his time spent in harmony with our natural world. Our talk only scratches the surface, but there is plenty more where this came from. This fall will see the publication of his long-awaited book, Short Stories From a Life Well-Lived: Stories by & about Jimbo Meador. It can be pre-ordered at JimboMeador.com, and is sure to be a must-read for any lover of the water. 

Until then, we’ll let Jimbo talk.

Early lessons
I was into nature probably more than anybody my age. I had a trapline and I wanted to be a mountain man. I sold furs. I took a correspondence course in taxidermy when I was about ten. I found a mail-order catalogue and I ordered everything I could find about trapping and the outdoors. I was just always fascinated with it. I’ve been blessed with all of that. In fact, the Bible tells us to take care of this—that God created this for us and we should take care of it.

Master naturalist
I took tours up in the Delta for a good while. One time I pulled up in a little bayou, and the lotuses were blooming. I had some women in the boat. We pulled in there and one woman stood up and she said, “There is a God.” I’d take those tours and show people all the vegetation and talk to them about it. I’d show them the invasive species and say, “You know what the worst invasive species is?” And they’d say, “What?” I’d say, “Us.”

The vegetation up there in the Delta is really important. It holds the land, you know. It also supplies a lot of life. People don’t realize how much life there is under the water that they don’t see. I once had some nets made, and I’d take kids up there and let them scoop down in the water and show them all this stuff. I had these little plastic goldfish bowls and we would see all the life that was in there in just one scoop.

And those little bowls I had, I’d let them keep them and watch the stuff and then release it. It said “Catch and Release” on the thing. I’ve forgotten where I got those things. But yeah, kids loved it. And their parents did, too. Parents enjoy seeing their kids enjoy it. But yeah, it’s a pretty unique place.

But this whole Bay—I mean, see how it’s brown? We once had seagrasses all in here. And the seagrass is a habitat for all marine life—crabs and shrimp and all kinds of fish. So we’ve destroyed a whole habitat with muddy water. For example, if I tell people, “If you put a tarpaulin over your grass, without photosynthesis, how’s it going to live?” Well, the Bay’s the same way. Muddy water is a tarpaulin, and as long as the water’s muddy we can’t have vegetation. So it’s like putting a tarpaulin over your garden, you know. You’re not gonna produce much.

Read the rest from CURRENTS (Fall 2026) here. Photo by Courtney Mason.

Born on the Bayou: Generational Shrimpers Say Industry is Facing Existential Threat

It’s Saturday morning in Bayou La Batre and the crew from SeaHarvest Shrimp is busy.

It’s Saturday morning in Bayou La Batre and the crew from SeaHarvest Shrimp is busy. Perseverance, the company’s 63-foot shrimp boat, has just returned from a three-day trip in early July, shrimping the night waters of the Bay and Gulf. Within hours of mooring they begin selling their catch to the public — straight off the boat, directly into buckets and coolers for three dollars a pound. In a matter of hours, the entire catch will be gone.  

“You find some more fresh than this, you let me know where you got ‘em,” says James Hunter. By the way he says it, he knows one cannot. A resident of nearby Irvington, he is a devoted customer, and now he is watching on as Perseverance crew member Jaylen Hall, a mid-twenty-something who grew up in the trade, shovels several pounds of brown shrimp into his ice-filled cooler. One hopes this will be enough shrimp to tide him over for the week. A former restaurant worker, he knows his way around the kitchen, especially when it comes to shrimp. Boiled, fried, prepared à la scampi, simmered in a gumbo, you name it, he can cook it.  

Fresh seafood, of course, is essential to the culture of Coastal Alabama. It’s part of our way of life. Yet this piece of our heritage is quickly slipping away. For the last two decades, the production of farmed shrimp in the Asia-Pacific region has grown at a staggering rate of 20 to 30 percent per year and the United States is one of the largest markets for this new supply. With the surge of imported shrimp our own shrimping business has come under existential threat, particularly in the past decade. In this new scenario, it is customers like James who are keeping the Hall family in the shrimping business.

SeaHarvest is a family-run business, operated by shrimper Reed Hall and his wife, Tammy. They started their retail operation back in 2020, not long after Covid dealt its first blows to so many businesses of every kind. The family bought the lot by the drawbridge in Bayou La Batre in August of that year, after most of the shrimp boats in town had shut down. They started selling directly to the public as a way to stay in business and keep the home fires burning. “Covid really blessed us in a way,” says Tammy, who runs the business side of things for SeaHarvest, “because it caused us to have to take a whole different route.”

Before that, they were selling directly to the processors and factories in town for less than the three-dollar retail price, which is no longer sustainable. Financial viability is a problem for shrimpers in Alabama and the Gulf Coast. Studies vary, but some reports put the percentage of shrimp imported into this country as high as 90 percent of the total supply. These imports drive down the price of wild-caught, domestic shrimp. 

The situation has grown so dire the city of Bayou La Batre issued a Declaration of Disaster for the town’s shrimping industry back in August. Henry Barnes, the town’s mayor, says the Seafood Capital of Alabama is in danger of becoming a ghost town due to the moribund state of the shrimping industry. He wants the federal government to put an end to the high volume of imported shrimp that are “dumped” — or sold at less than fair-market value — into the U.S. market. He’d also like the government to subsidize fuel for shrimpers. 

Eighty-five percent of the wild-caught shrimp in Alabama come out of Bayou La Batre alone, and more than 300 fishing and shrimping vessels are licensed to operate out of the Bayou. But the economics tell a different story. Barnes says shrimpers are now getting a dollar a pound for shrimp, compared to the rate of $6.50 for a pound in 1980. 

“We are not looking for a handout,” Barnes says. “We are looking for a way to make a living … this is one of the oldest professions in the world.”

There are other challenges as well. The industry took a big hit with the financial crisis of 2008 and there hasn’t been a big rebound, says Scott Bannon, director of the Alabama Marine Resources Division for the Alabama Department of Conservation and Natural Resources. “And all the costs associated with shrimping are going up,” he adds. “Price of fuel, price of equipment. And maintaining a boat is extremely expensive.”

Starting in June when the shrimp season opens, the Perseverance can be found every Saturday docked next to the drawbridge. By 10 a.m., the company’s band of devoted customers begin to arrive. These are folks who know good shrimp when they find them. Some of the shrimp were swimming as recently as the night before, so the only way to experience a fresher catch would be to work on the boat itself and cook them on deck. You see orders of ten pounds, twenty pounds, even thirty pounds on Saturday mornings. Customers come from as far as Atlanta and Memphis. There’s even a couple from Michigan that makes the drive down every year and hauls them back up to the north country. “I just tell them to stop half-way to drain the water and swap out fresh ice,” Tammy says.

In Alabama, there have been marketing efforts by the state to help drive up the price for domestics. “We can’t produce enough from the wild harvest to meet the demand,” says Chris Blankenship, commissioner of the Alabama Department of Conservation and Natural Resources. “What we’ve tried to with the ten percent of shrimp that are wild-caught is to create a premium brand for that [in Alabama], so people will play a little more for domestic quality shrimp.”

History of the Bayou

Shrimping is the heart of Bayou La Batre, the Seafood Capital of Alabama. Not far from Dauphin Island, the town boasts a long and storied history that begins with its founding in 1786 when the French-born Joseph Bouzage was awarded a Spanish land grant in what is now south Mobile County. In the early twentieth-century the town began to make its name as a fishing village, not long after the hurricane of 1906 devastated the area and killed an estimated 150 people in south Mobile County alone. Almost ninety years later, Bayou La Batre would be imprinted upon the mind of global pop culture when Hollywood immortalized the richness of Bayou La Batre’s coastal heritage. As the hometown of Forrest Gump’s bosom war buddy, Bubba, whose dream of owning a shrimping boat inspired the title character to start a shrimping operation, it became the place where Forrest made his first fortune, drawing Lieutenant Dan along the way to the place where he would make his peace with God.

With a population of about 2,200, the Bayou remains a center for shipbuilding and is still home to a number of seafood processors and canneries (an industry also under threat with the current level of import “dumping”). For decades it has known a large Southeast Asian population. In the late 1970s, refugees from Vietnam, Laos, and Cambodia settled in Bayou La Batre — as well as other parts of the Gulf Coast — to work in the shrimping and fishing industries. These immigrants had fled the ravages of a war-torn homeland, and the deltas and bays of the Gulf harkened back to the estuarine waters of the old country. Here, they could make a living and raise a family. Some worked on boats, while others worked jobs in the canneries, picking crab meat and keeping the production floor running. Even today, Bayou La Batre remains something of a cultural polyglot. Roughly a quarter of the town’s population is Southeast Asian, though many have gotten out of the seafood industry in the last decade or so.

 Continue reading at MobileBaykeeper.org.